Sperm Whale watching from Kalpitiya set to take off
April 25th, 2012 by Jetwing eMarketingPhotos and Text – Riaz Cader
A lone bull Sperm Whale was making a bee-line straight towards our 19-footer boat, pausing and occasionally sticking its head out of the water to investigate the curious inhabitants on-board. It got to within a few feet and swam right past, providing fantastic opportunities for photography in what was one of the most awe-inspiring encounters with a wild animal I’ve had to date. Obtaining such a sighting however was no straight forward task. After initially locating the Sperm Whales at a distance the boatman was instructed to maneuver the boat using an arc-forward technique, which required pulling away from the whale circling around and getting well-ahead of the whale directly along its travel path and then switching off the engine. This provided the Sperm Whale the option of choosing whether or not to approach the boat without any undue harassment and was a technique that had worked with remarkable success throughout the expedition.
I was out at sea from Kalpitiya on the 16th and 17th April with Gehan de Silva Wijeyeratne, one of Sri Lanka’s most known wildlife personalities and Ashan Seneviratne from Little Adventures in a joint effort to try and locate and promote the Kalpitiya Peninsula as possibly Sri Lanka’s top spot for watching Sperm Whales. Ashan had also got the local hoteliers Maithri Liyanage (Ruwala Nature Resort) and Howard Martensyn (Bar Reef Resort and Dolphin Beach) involved. Throughout the expedition, the boats were to communicate with each other and scan the ‘Sperm Whale line’, popularly dubbed by Gehan as the strip between E79 35 and E79 37 longitudinal lines where the continental shelf runs parallel to the land about seven nautical miles from the shore. The 400 metre depth line lies along the continental shelf and has been identified as the average hunting depth for Sperm Whales.
We arrived at Duch Bay where a boatman awaited us after a 3:00am start from Colombo, where Iqbal Hassen was kind enough to host us at Baywatch Eco Resort on the Northern-tip of the Kalpitiya Peninsula. After some initial delays, we finally got underway at about 9:00am. There was a lot of excitement in Kalpitiya unconfirmed reports from the boatman suggested that a large number of Sperm Whales possibly numbering over 150 individuals were seen over the recently concluded Sinhalese and Tamil New Year weekend. Maithri had his son Mithun been out to sea the previous day and had seen a large group of Sperm Whales counting at least fifty individuals.
Within about an hour of sailing out in sea conditions so flat which resembled a river, we saw a ‘spout’ and a Bryde’s Whale made a brief appearance not too far off Kandakuliya. Almost immediately afterwards we were on the trail of a pod of Spinner Dolphins on the hunt numbering in the hundreds. Soon our boatman had spotted some whales in the distance and myself and Ashan saw a large vertical column of water at a distance which I initially suspected to be that from a Humpback Whale, a species which is reputed for breaching on a regular basis. Upon closing in, the angled blows from the spout and the rectangular shaped heads confirmed that we were infact following a group of Sperm Whales. Using the arc-forward technique with great success we managed to watch what was estimated to be around five to eight individual Sperm Whales at close range when we decided to leave the area.
On day two, the wind had picked up and sea conditions were noticeably rougher yet permitted sailing. Upon leaving Dutch-bay we decided to do an initial search along the Sperm Whale strip heading Northwards first before turning around while maintaining contact with Maithri who was heading South from Kandakuliya. After a couple of hours, we got a call from Maithri that a large pod of Sperm Whales numbering over fifty individuals was travelling South. We made a bee-line towards the initial location given by Maithri ignoring the pod of Spinner Dolphins en-route. By the time we got there the whales had continued to move further South and drifting East away from the land and it took almost another half an hour to locate them. We had travelled over twenty nautical miles and encountered what appeared to be the tail-end of the pod where around 15 – 18 individuals were seen on the move off Norocholai area about nine nautical miles from the land. Unfortunately the boat was now running low on fuel and we had to prematurely call off our search and make a hasty retreat towards the land.
Very little is known about Sperm Whales in Sri Lanka; sightings from Mirissa over the past few seasons appear to indicate that they migrate through Sri Lanka around December and return around March –April when there is a peak in sightings. They are often seen travelling in large groups which can sometimes number over a hundred individuals so while the high numbers might be an unusual occurrence for the onlookers at Kalpitiya, it is perfectly inline with Sperm Whale behaviour.
Kalpitiya is currently recognized as Sri Lanka’ top spot for watching dolphins, Spinner Dolphins are encountered on virtually a daily basis and pods numbering in the hundreds are seen regularly during the season which spans from November to April. But there is a much bigger story to be unveiled;. the close proximity of the continental shelf from the mainland and regular sightings of Sperm Whales between February – April 2010 on research expeditions run through Jetwing Eco Holidays and Bar Reef Resort (Formerly Alankuda Beach) has led Gehan to publicize Kalpitiya over the past two years as being the top spot in Sri Lanka and possibly in Asia for watching Sperm Whales. While the signs look promising, more data is needed to establish as to whether there are even a handful of Sperm Whales residing in the area for a longer period of time. In Kaikoura off New Zealand for example there are a handful of resident Sperm Whales which permits whale watching year-round.
Unfortunately the boatman operating in Kalpitiya are often unaware and on occasion even reluctant to venture beyond the reef to deeper waters in search of the whales and seemed predominantly interested in focusing solely on the dolphin watching. Despite such setbacks, a number of clients sent out from Jetwing Eco Holidays have had success in spotting Sperm Whales off Kalpitiya around March to April in both 2011 and 2012. With the Kalpitiya hoteliers and boatman now showing a greater interest in targeting the whales, it is expected that the 2012/13 season will provide more sightings enabling Kalpitiya to be recognized as one of the best places in Asia to watch Sperm Whales.
Riaz Cader is a wildlife photographer and works as Assistant Manager – Nature & Community Projects for Jetwing Hotels



















